Inside the Minds of New York’s Top Skincare Experts: Candid Advice from Shereene Idriss and Sofie Pavitt
In the fast-paced world of skincare, New York City is home to some of the most influential voices. Among them, two names stand out: Shereene Idriss, the cosmetic dermatologist behind the viral #PillowTalkDerm on TikTok, and Sofie Pavitt, Soho’s leading acne specialist. Though they work in different spheres of skin care, they share a rare bond: honesty. Together, they offer an unfiltered look at trends, treatments, and the myths circulating in today’s beauty culture.
The Social Media Effect
Social media has dramatically reshaped how people think about skin and beauty.
Shereene Idriss notes that skincare exploded online around 2017, accelerating during 2020. “Trends move so fast now,” she says. “One year it’s a square jaw, then threads, fox eyes, or lifted foreheads. Then lips became the obsession, even earlobes had their moment.” Today, she observes a sudden backlash against fillers, with facelifts making a comeback—but warns that extremes often result in unnatural looks.
Idriss emphasizes that fear drives much of social content. “People get scared about aging and fillers. Some professionals exploit that fear. I tell my younger patients: ‘You’re 28. Focus on building a good skincare routine first.’”
Sofie Pavitt agrees, adding that misinformation is rampant. “People layer too many actives or chase trending ingredients. I see so many cases of perioral dermatitis directly tied to product overload.” For Pavitt, the solution begins with foundational skincare: evaluating routines, lifestyle factors, and environmental contributors. “You can tell within minutes whether someone’s ready to reset and start fresh,” she says.
Navigating Fillers and Fear
Fillers have a nuanced role that social media rarely conveys. Idriss explains: “Nuance is lost online. Aging isn’t linear—some years show more change, others less. Using filler well requires understanding a patient’s face in context, and sometimes a facelift is more appropriate than a syringe of filler.”
She stresses that fillers are not inherently “bad,” but misinformation online causes anxiety, particularly among women in their late 30s and 40s who want to maintain their appearance. “It’s about helping someone feel like themselves, not chasing perfection.”
The Hype and Reality of Ingredients
Trendy ingredients like exosomes are a hot topic—and a source of frustration for experts. Idriss explains that over-the-counter exosome products are largely marketing hype. “They’re usually plant-derived antioxidants, not human-derived tissue. There’s no FDA oversight, and the claims often outpace the science.”
Pavitt shares her preferences: gentle, proven actives. “Azelaic acid is popular, but I favor mandelic acid. I avoid overcomplicated layering. I still recommend benzoyl peroxide—used correctly, it’s safe and effective.” Both experts caution against returning to outdated ingredients like beef tallow or blindly trusting terms like “non-comedogenic” without understanding formulations.
Debunking Myths
From sunscreen fears to filler hysteria, Idriss and Pavitt tackle persistent myths.
- Water clears acne: Pavitt rolls her eyes.
- Sunscreen is toxic: Idriss counters, “You’re not going to die from sunscreen. Air pollution in the city is a bigger threat.”
- A touch of filler will ruin your face: “Not everyone wants surgery,” Idriss says. “Fillers can be used safely, responsibly, and body-positively.”
Choosing the Right Professional
Finding the right dermatologist or facialist is crucial. Pavitt emphasizes consistency and expertise: “Make sure your facialist is working on real skin, not just content creation. Progress comes from ongoing care, not one-off facials.”
Idriss advises evaluating the entire experience: “Pay for the consultation like research. Observe the staff, see how they interact, and notice if the doctor listens. Are they trying to sell you something quickly, or understand your goals?” Both experts highlight the importance of long-term partnerships: familiarity with your skin, history, and routine is invaluable.
Timing Treatments
When it comes to Botox, Idriss stresses individualized timing: “Wait until lines appear at rest, not when raising brows or frowning. Genetics matter—look at your parents. Generally, mid- to late 20s is a safe starting point. Before that, focus on skincare, habits, and sun protection.”
Facials are more flexible. Pavitt recommends them for teens with acne, but warns against unnecessary treatments. “Sometimes, basic products like benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid are all that’s needed.” Idriss adds, “You shouldn’t be dependent on aestheticians or dermatologists. Education is key.”
Mentorship and Inspiration
Both Idriss and Pavitt credit their mentors. Idriss admires Pavitt, Joanna Vargas, and Cynthia Rivas for their expertise and approach to patient care. Pavitt highlights Joanna Vargas, Georgia Louise, and rising downtown facialists like Raquel Medina and Elizabeth Grace Hand. She also praises Glowbar for making facials more accessible.
Their career paths underscore the value of learning before launching independent practices. Idriss honed her skills in dermatology before opening her clinic in 2021, while Pavitt’s background in fashion and repeated trips to Seoul shaped her results-driven approach to facials. Both stress that skill development and hands-on experience must precede entrepreneurship.
The Bottom Line
Skincare isn’t just about chasing trends or viral products. According to Idriss and Pavitt, it’s about understanding your own skin, choosing informed professionals, and building long-term, sustainable routines. Social media may accelerate trends and amplify fears, but the fundamentals remain unchanged: education, consistency, and a healthy dose of skepticism.
Ultimately, their advice is simple: respect your skin, choose your treatments wisely, and don’t let the noise of the internet dictate your self-confidence.
